[Ronna Welsh shared sustainable ways of wasting less in the kitchen with The Splendid Table. She breaks down an apple into four acts: Apple Core Agrodolce, Shallot Apple Core Agrodolce, Apple Core Mostarda and Apple Core Bourbon.]
Here, we take the leftover bloated apple cores from making Apple Core Agrodolce and remove the near gelatinous, intensely sweet and sour flesh. What remains are seeds and stems. These, I’ll let you put in the trash.
Membrillo is jellied quince confection, typically served with cheese and cured meats. Here, the apple cores, heavy with sweet and sour (agrodolce) syrup, inspire similar use. We add coarse mustard to the reserved apple, making mostarda out of something that was surely otherwise, trash.
Once cooked apple cores are cool enough to handle, use your fingers to carefully remove all flesh from the stem.
Stir in about a teaspoon of mustard, or to taste. Chill in refrigerator. Serve cold, alongside grilled or cured meats or nutty cheeses.
From Ronna Welsh, Purple Kale Kitchenworks.
Darra Goldstein is editor in chief of The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, an 888-page reference guide to all things sweet. "The book is really a compendium of human desires, a cultural history of desire for things that are sweet and what it has caused in the world, in both the realm of pleasure and also of pain," she says.