Years ago proprietor Dale Eckl reminded us that a proper roll is as significant as good beef in making the city's cherished sandwich right, a point made clear by the one served here: on a bun that is fragile and fine-crumbed but sturdy enough to hold up almost to the end even when sopped with juice, just-right salty with a good caraway zing. The beef piled into this roll is carved (when ordered, not before) to be extra thin.